Introduction
Climate change is real & the 21st century is severely affected by changes with the increase of heat waves, rising sea levels, and damage to the ecosystem. Due to global warming, the temperature of the earth has increased by 1.1° Celsius since the industrial revolution in 1880. The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of the global carbon emission. Dries up water sources, pollutes rivers and streams, and 85% of all textiles go dumped each year ( UNECE 2018). Approximately 60% of all materials used by the fashion industry are made up of plastic (UNEP 2019). 70% of the fashion industry emissions come from upstream activities such as material production, preparation, and processing; the remaining 30% are associated with downstream retail operations (Global Fashion Agenda)
The fashion industry does not fail to keep up with the fast-paced climatic variations and their impact on Earth. Fashion, once characterized by fast-paced trends, disposable clothing, and a disregard for the environment, is now beginning to align itself with sustainability and climate-conscious practices. Brands, retailers, manufacturers, citizens, investors, and policymakers all need to work together to achieve certain goals for climate impact on the fashion industry.
The Fashion Industry’s Carbon Footprint
- The procedures of dyeing and finishing, which add color and other chemicals to textiles, are accountable for more than 20% of the world’s water pollution and 3% of its CO2 emissions. The textile sector produces around 1.2 billion tonnes of CO2 equivalent annually, or almost 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions.
- Fast fashion is not just a major contributor to water pollution but also to the enormous amounts of water that are wasted daily. To put this into perspective, consider that 2,700 liters of water—enough to sustain one person’s drinking for 900 days—are required to produce a single t-shirt. Additionally, 50 to 60 liters of water are needed for a single load of laundry.
- Only 12% of the materials used to make garments are recycled worldwide. The materials used to make our clothing and the lack of appropriate recycling technology account for a large portion of the issue.
- Due to their affordability and durability, nylon and polyester are now widely used in clothing, which makes them a major source of microplastics. Microfilaments from every wash and dry cycle are released into our sewage systems and wind up in the waterways. An estimated half a million tonnes of these pollutants end up in the ocean annually. That is the same as more than 50 billion bottles’ worth of plastic pollution.
- The figure below reveals that the highest levels of water pollution caused by the textile industry are found in Turkey (32.21%), Indonesia (29.25%) and China (20.29%), while the lowest are in Germany (2.44%), the U.K. (4.26%) and the USA (4.29%).
The carbon footprint of the industry is immense and ranges between 6 to 8% of total global carbon emission, around 1.7 tonnes in Carbon Emission every year, with a significant portion of this attributed to the production of clothing. From the cultivation of raw materials like cotton to the energy-intensive processes of manufacturing, dyeing, and transportation, the environmental cost of producing clothes is substantial. If no further action is taken over the next decade, the emissions will rise by 2.7 billion tons per year by 2030.
1. Production and Raw Materials
A significant part of the environmental impact comes from the production of raw materials. For instance, cotton farming requires vast amounts of water, pesticides, and fertilizers, which degrade soil quality and contribute to water scarcity in some regions. Moreover, synthetic materials such as polyester, while more durable and affordable, are derived from non-renewable resources like oil and contribute to microplastic pollution when they shed tiny plastic fibers during washing.
2. Wasteful Manufacturing Processes
Fast fashion, a term describing the rapid production of inexpensive clothing that quickly goes out of style, has become synonymous with the industry. This fast-paced approach promotes wasteful manufacturing processes, including overproduction and excess inventory. Unsold clothing often ends up in landfills, emitting greenhouse gases as it decomposes.
3. Long Supply Chains
The global nature of fashion supply chains means that clothing often travels long distances before reaching consumers. Shipping, both by sea and air, contributes significantly to carbon emissions.
The impact of these practices on climate change cannot be understated. The fashion industry contributes approximately 10% of global carbon emissions, making it one of the most polluting industries. In addition to carbon emissions, fashion production also contributes to other environmental issues, such as water pollution, habitat destruction, and overexploitation of resources.
Climate Change and fashion
There are a lot of ways climate change is influencing the fashion industry:
- Climate change affects cotton cultivation. Rising temperatures and unpredictable weather patterns can lead to reduced yields and lower-quality cotton. For example, in recent years, India, one of the world’s largest cotton producers, has faced challenges due to extreme weather events, impacting the quality and supply of cotton. Similarly, wool production can be affected by changing weather conditions, which can impact the availability and quality of wool. In Australia, for instance, droughts and extreme heat waves have affected sheep farming and wool production.
- Climate change increases the frequency and severity of natural disasters, which can disrupt supply chains. Hurricanes, typhoons, and floods can damage manufacturing facilities, disrupt transportation, and lead to production delays. For example, in 2017, Hurricane Maria severely affected Puerto Rico, where several pharmaceutical and apparel manufacturing facilities were located, causing production disruptions.
- Governments implement more stringent environmental regulations to combat climate change, fashion businesses must adapt their manufacturing processes. For example, regulations on water usage or emissions can impact the operations of textile dyeing and finishing facilities.
- Climate change exacerbates water scarcity in many regions. Fashion manufacturing is water-intensive, and water shortages can lead to increased costs and production challenges. For instance, regions like Bangladesh have faced water scarcity issues that impact textile dyeing and finishing
- Climate change exacerbates water scarcity in many regions. Fashion manufacturing is water-intensive, and water shortages can lead to increased costs and production challenges. For instance, regions like Bangladesh have faced water scarcity issues that impact textile dyeing and finishing.
In light of the urgent need to address climate change, the fashion industry is gradually evolving to reduce its negative impact. Several key strategies and innovations are driving this change:
1. Embracing Sustainable Materials
Sustainable fabrics like organic cotton, Tencel, and recycled materials are gaining popularity. Brands are increasingly prioritizing eco-friendly materials that require fewer resources and produce fewer emissions.
2. Circular Fashion – Recycle/Reuse/Reduce
Circular fashion emphasizes the reuse and recycling of clothing. Brands are now designing with longevity in mind, offering repair services, and creating take-back programs to recycle old garments. This approach aims to reduce the volume of clothing ending up in landfills and extend the lifespan of fashion items.
3. Eco-Friendly Manufacturing
Sustainable practices in manufacturing, such as waterless dyeing techniques, are emerging. Brands are also investing in renewable energy sources to power their facilities, reducing their carbon emissions.
4. Local Production
To cut down on the carbon emissions associated with long supply chains, some brands are focusing on local and regional production. This approach reduces transportation-related emissions and fosters local economies.
5. Transparency and Accountability
Transparency in the fashion supply chain is increasingly important to consumers. Brands are being held accountable for their practices, and many are disclosing information about their supply chains and their environmental and social impact.
6. Sustainable Transportation
a) Green supply chains
6.1)Sustainable transportation plays an essential part in lowering greenhouse gas emissions from the transport sector, which is a major factor contributing to global warming, and consequently aids in climate change mitigation and a greener future by giving a focus to these alternatives.
6.2) Reducing greenhouse gas emissions through the use of low-carbon fuels is one of the main concepts of sustainable transportation. Energy powers electric cars (EVs), which don’t release any emissions into the environment.
6.3) As the movement of people and goods results in a much smaller carbon footprint, sustainable transport is crucial to the development of net-zero supply chains.
b)Battery Technology: Battery technology in the apparel supply chain powers wearables supports inventory tracking, and drives sustainability through electric vehicles and automation.
c)Rapid Digitisation: Rapid digitization in the apparel industry involves the widespread use of digital technology to enhance design, supply chain, e-commerce, manufacturing, sustainability, data analytics, customization, marketing, and customer service. This transformation leads to more efficient processes, improved customer experiences, and a greater focus on sustainability.
7. Improved packaging
Improved apparel packaging focuses on sustainability, utilizing eco-friendly materials, reducing waste, and lowering transport emissions to mitigate environmental damage. Consumer awareness is also a key component of these efforts.
Global Activism and Consumer Awareness
The Paris Agreement (2015) set out to limit global warming to less than 2 degrees, with a preferable Target to limit warming to 1.5 degrees to reach this Target, global emissions need to decline by about 45% by 2030 and be at net zero by 2050. Garment sector stakeholders came together in 2018 to commit to climate action through the UNFCCC- UN Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Change Action. They all committed to reducing their carbon emission by 30% by 2030 from a 2015 baseline and be net-zero emissions by 2050. This 30% reduction in the sector would require a reduction of more than half a billion tonnes of carbon dioxide across the sector per year by 2030. Reducing carbon emissions will no doubt require changes to business models alongside technological and process innovations.
In terms of Consumer Awareness, there is no doubt that the sudden change has affected the mindset of consumers. Consumers are increasingly aware of the environmental and social consequences of their fashion choices. They are using their purchasing power to demand change in the industry. A growing number of consumers are seeking out sustainable and ethically produced clothing and are willing to pay a premium for these products. Social media and digital platforms have played a significant role in spreading awareness about sustainable fashion. Influencers and activists use their platforms to educate and advocate for ethical and eco-conscious choices. Hashtags like #SustainableFashion and #WhoMadeMyClothes have gained traction, encouraging consumers to question the origins and impact of their clothing.
It’s also important to mention the rise of the “slow fashion” movement. This philosophy encourages consumers to buy fewer, higher-quality items that will last longer, in contrast to the fast fashion model. Slow fashion promotes mindful consumption, emphasizing timeless and versatile pieces over trendy, disposable items. Furthermore, thrift shopping and clothing rental services have become popular choices, allowing consumers to access stylish clothing without contributing to excessive consumption.
Regulations and Government Initiatives
Governments and international organizations are recognizing the need for regulatory intervention in the fashion industry. Some key initiatives include:
1. Sustainable Fashion Policy Initiatives: Several governments and organizations have developed policies and guidelines for sustainable fashion. For example, the European Union’s Circular Economy Action Plan promotes sustainable clothing production and consumption.
2. Microfiber Pollution Regulations: Microplastic pollution from synthetic clothing has drawn the attention of regulators. Some jurisdictions are exploring regulations to limit the release of microfibers from textiles during washing.
3. Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) Programs: EPR programs shift the burden of recycling and disposal from consumers to producers. These programs encourage manufacturers to take responsibility for the entire life cycle of their products, including clothing.
4. Eco-Labeling: Some governments are introducing eco-labeling programs that help consumers identify environmentally friendly products. These labels can drive demand for sustainable clothing.
5. SDG Sustainable Development Goals: The apparel, leather, and footwear fashion value chain is the focal point of the United Nations Alliance for Sustainable Fashion (UNASF). It guarantees that coordinated efforts in the fashion industry from start to finish will meet the SDGs. According to the UNASF, the apparel industry contributes between 2 and 8% of greenhouse gas emissions overall and removes 9% of microplastic from the oceans annually. Through the implementation of outreach and collaborative initiatives, knowledge sharing, and the cultivation of existing synergies, the UNASF is dedicated to reforming the fashion sector (United Nations n.d.a). As a result, the UN is taking many important steps to promote sustainability in textiles and apparel. The aforementioned research also suggests that the fashion industry’s ecological index is being notably impacted by SDG 12: responsible production and consumption.
Challenges and Criticisms
Despite the promising developments in sustainable fashion, the industry faces several challenges and criticisms:
1. Cost: Sustainable clothing can be more expensive due to the use of eco-friendly materials and ethical labour practices. This makes it less accessible to some consumers.
2. Greenwashing: Some brands may exaggerate their sustainability efforts to attract consumers, a practice known as greenwashing. This can make it difficult for consumers to identify genuinely eco-friendly products.
3. Waste and Recycling: While circular fashion is gaining traction, challenges remain in the efficient collection and recycling of used clothing.
4. Consumer Behaviour: Consumer behavior is a critical driver of change within the fashion industry. As climate change awareness and concerns about environmental sustainability continue to grow, consumers are reevaluating their shopping habits and making choices that prioritize ethical and eco-conscious fashion.
This shift in consumer behavior has significant impacts on the fashion industry, prompting brands to adapt their strategies to meet the evolving demands of a more climate-aware market:
- Rise of Sustainable Brands: Brands that embrace sustainability and ethical practices are gaining market share. Companies like Eileen Fisher, known for their commitment to sustainability, have seen significant growth in sales and reputation.
- Collaborations with Thrift and Resale Platforms: Major fashion brands are partnering with thrift and resale platforms to extend the life of their products. For instance, brands like Levi’s have collaborated with thredUP to resell pre-owned denim, reducing the demand for new production.
- Clothing Rental Services Integration: Luxury brands like Gucci and H&M have ventured into clothing rental services. Gucci, for example, introduced a rental service, “Gucci Vault,” which allows customers to rent vintage Gucci items. This aligns with the growing consumer interest in renting rather than owning.
- Transparency Initiatives: Brands are increasingly embracing transparency initiatives to meet consumer demands for ethical and sustainable practices. Companies like Everlane openly share information about the factories where their products are made and the costs involved in production.
- Influencer Partnerships: Influencers with a focus on sustainability and ethical fashion are gaining prominence. Brands are collaborating with these influencers to connect with the growing eco-conscious audience.
- Sustainable Material Integration: Brands are investing in sustainable materials and production methods. For example, Stella McCartney is known for her commitment to animal-free materials and sustainable practices, making her brand a leader in eco-conscious fashion.
- Retailer Commitments: Major retailers are setting ambitious sustainability goals. For instance, H&M has committed to becoming 100% circular by 2030, demonstrating a shift towards more sustainable practices.
- Eco-Friendly Fashion Weeks: Fashion Weeks in various cities, including London and Copenhagen, now dedicate significant attention to sustainability and ethical fashion. This reflects the industry’s recognition of changing consumer values.
Conclusion
The industry needs to redefine the business model, and technology for a prosperous future and a habitable earth. Technology and innovation are playing a significant role in minimizing the industry’s environmental footprint, offering promising solutions for a more sustainable future. Regulations and government initiatives are also pushing for a greener fashion industry.
The garment industry needs to focus on the following areas:
1) Reducing emissions from upstream operations
2) Reducing emissions from the brand’s own operation
3) Encouraging sustainable consumer behaviors.
However, challenges remain, such as the cost of sustainable clothing, greenwashing, and changing consumer behavior. Overcoming these challenges will require collaboration among consumers, brands, governments, and the broader fashion ecosystem.
Author Profile
Aishi Mohan & Megha Sarkar, National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi students with a strong passion for the fashion industry, they specialize in Apparel Production and Fashion Retailing and have a keen interest in sustainability, quality analysis, and Computer-Aided Design using AutoCAD and CLO 3D. They have gained valuable experience interning with reputable fashion companies on digitization and streamlining projects.